Tile removal and floor prep

Why prep is half the job

New tile goes on whatever is under it. If the substrate is not flat, sound and clean, the finished surface will show it in lippage, cracks, hollow spots or an edge that lifts. Most failed tile jobs fail underneath, not on the surface. That is why we treat removal and prep as work with its own scope, schedule and price.

Tile removal is also the point at which you learn what the house has been hiding. Old waterproofing, soft subfloor, a cracked slab, plumbing that was moved and never closed up: the old tile hides all of it. We open it up carefully, tell you what we see and give you options before we close it again.

Taking out tile without wrecking what stays

The method depends on what the tile is bonded to. Tile in a thin layer of adhesive over a slab comes up with an electric chipping hammer and a scraper. Tile in a mortar bed on a wood floor needs a lighter touch so the subfloor is not damaged. Tile on a wall may come off with the drywall behind it, or it may be on a mortar bed that is removed in sections.

We protect what is staying: cabinets, door casings, tubs and adjoining floors are covered or masked, and dust is controlled with vacuum-equipped tools and barriers. We start where the work is easiest and move toward the more delicate areas so that any surprises are found early.

Mortar beds in 1950s houses

In many houses built in the 1950s, bathroom floors and walls were set in a mortar bed, a layer of sand and cement about an inch or more thick, over wire lath on the walls or over the subfloor. When the bed is sound and bonded, it is one of the best substrates for new tile. When it has absorbed water for decades, it can be soft, crumbly or detached from the lath.

We test the bed with a hammer and a probe. Hollow sounds and soft spots mean it should come out. Sound ones can often be kept and cleaned. Removing a bed is heavy, dusty work, and the depth matters because the floor height changes: the new tile and underlayment may need to be thinner to meet the hall floor, so we plan it before we start.

Backer board, drywall and what failed

Bathroom walls behind old tile sometimes have drywall, which is not meant for a wet area. Where we find it, the wet or soft sections come out, and the studs are checked for rot or mold. We replace the wall with cement board or a foam board system and waterproof it as part of the new shower or tub wall.

If studs or the subfloor are damaged, we tell you before we cover them. Structural repairs are best done by a carpenter, and we coordinate with one if you do not have one. We do not tile over rot.

Flatness, leveling and slab prep

After removal, we check the floor with a long straightedge. Tiles in the floor's large dips can crack, and high spots can cause rocking. We grind high spots and fill low ones with a patching or self-leveling compound suited to the thickness and the floor type. Large tile needs a flatter floor than small tile.

On concrete we also remove old adhesive and sealers, because a new thinset needs to bond to the concrete. We vacuum thoroughly, prime where the product requires it and let the compound cure fully before we tile.

Cracks and moisture in slabs

Slab cracks are common. Hairline cracks that are not moving can be filled and covered. Cracks that move, grow or are offset need an isolation membrane that lets the tile bridge the crack. We do not ignore a crack that looks structural, and we tell you if someone else should look at it.

Moisture is checked when there are signs of it: dark patches under old tile, efflorescence, or adhesive that failed in a pattern. In those cases we recommend a moisture test and, if needed, a vapor-control membrane before any new tile or flooring goes down.

Wood subfloors and underlayment

On wood floors, we look at the thickness of the subfloor and the spacing of the joists. A flexible floor needs to be stiffened, usually by adding plywood and fastening it properly, before tile. Over that, a cement board or an uncoupling membrane gives a proper bonding surface.

Underlayment adds height. We calculate the finished height before the tile goes on so that doors, cabinets and thresholds still work. If the difference is large, we plan transitions early.

Debris, dust and the schedule

Removal is the dustiest and noisiest part of a tile job. We use tools with dust extraction, seal off doorways with plastic and keep the work area clean at the end of each day. We remove our own debris from the property when it is part of the written scope.

Removal usually takes a day or two for a bathroom and longer for a large floor. Repairs, leveling compounds and waterproofing then take their own cure times, and we tell you the schedule up front so you know when the new tile can go on.

When to call us before you demo

If you plan to remove tile yourself, call us first. We can tell you what to look for and what not to touch. A demolished bathroom with the plumbing exposed and an unexpected problem is a bad time to start looking for a tile setter. A short visit beforehand gives you a clearer picture of the job.

Areas we serve

• Lakewood
• Long Beach
• Bellflower
• Cerritos
• Downey